When we
learned that Scott's younger cousin Ben, from Boston, was
finally tying the knot with his long-time girlfriend Melanie, we
thought this would be the perfect opportunity not only to see some family
from both Massachusetts and Michigan but also to add a new state
to our lengthy list of those we've visited: Massachusetts' petite
and often-overlooked
neighbor, Rhode Island. Being the travelers that we are,
there are very few states remaining that we have yet to visit and Rhode Island
was one of them so we were very excited to be able to add a new
notch to our belts and eat lots of seafood along the way. As the wedding festivities were to
take place in Ben's hometown of Attleboro, MA it made sense for
us to base ourselves in Providence, RI less than 30 minutes
away. It was to be a brief trip; we would be away for just four
days with two of them spent largely just getting to and from the east
coast. As it turned out, all of our advance research and planning more than
paid off and we spent four wonderful days celebrating Ben &
Melanie's marital union with Scott's mom, dad and numerous Brooks aunts
and uncles, as well as enjoying the scenery and eating our way through the
easily navigable and pleasantly
compact state of Rhode Island.
Upon touching down at
the convenient Providence airport late on Thursday afternoon, we
grabbed our carry-on bags, jumped in our rented Toyota Yaris
(right on site at the airport - how cool is that?!) and headed
directly for Newport - Rhode Island's vacation home to many of
New England's old-moneyed-rich-and-famous. A mere 30
minutes after leaving the airport, we parked the car on a quiet
residential street in Newport and headed towards the water.
Although the wind was brisk at times and the air a bit cool, Newport's Cliff Walk, the waterfront pathway
from which you can see many of the stately mansions, was simply lovely
in the waning afternoon light.
After a brief but pleasant
walk, we proceeded to our first planned food stop of the trip: the
popular Flo's Clam Shack located just over the town border of
Newport in Middletown, RI. Housed in a charming 2-story,
seaside Victorian-style building, Flo's parking lot was
jam-packed even though not yet May (probably, we later
discovered, because it was all-you-can-eat-crab-legs night), and
after driving around the tiny town searching in vain for a
parking space for 30 minutes or so, we ended up driving back to
Newport, parking on the street fronting the beach and walking
in. If not necessarily for the food, it was definitely worth the
effort for the ambience, if you can call it that. At Flo's,
as is apparently common at these Rhode Island fried seafood shacks, you walk
in, order at the counter and get a number. Luckily, we
nabbed the last table on the enclosed upstairs deck and enjoyed
our plastic cups of ice-cold Bud Light while we waited for our food.
We immensely enjoyed listening to the staff calling out the order numbers
ready for pick up over a loud speaker (the operative word here
being loud) in the most delightfully classic New England accents
we had ever heard. It was like free entertainment!
Although we had read positive reviews of the light fried quality
of the seafood, we both decided that Caroline's Fisherman's
Platter of fried goods - clam strips, whole clams, scallops,
shrimp, scrod and clamcakes - that arrived at the table heaping
and ready to spill over was a bit overrated (although Scott
quite liked the whole fried clams). Scott's thin,
golden-broth Rhode Island Clam 'Chowda' and 'Lobsta' roll got
higher marks. Having read about them before leaving home,
we were eager to try the clamcakes, which seem to be the
unofficial state food of Rhode Island. From the
description, Caroline was hoping they would be more like the
hushpuppies common in the Carolina Lowcountry, but they were a
bit denser and doughier and were distinctly lacking in that delightful
hushpuppy-corn flavor she so loves. But apparently the
food was good enough (the homemade cocktail sauce was
sublime!) because somehow (disgustingly), we managed
to finish it all!
Back in Providence, we checked in
to yet another fabulous Priceline find, the Renaissance
Providence Hotel,
located downtown and directly across from the imposingly
picturesque Rhode Island State House. The hotel was, in
its previous incarnation, the Masonic Temple and has been
recently renovated into a beautiful and luxurious hotel.
Decorated in a pleasant mix of colonial New England colors and
patterns paired with modern design elements, our spacious,
well-designed room left little to be desired and at $60/night we
were ecstatic to have scored such a gem! (click
here for Part 2)
The Cliff Walk
Enjoying some late-afternoon sunshine on The Cliff Walk in
Newport
On the road to Flo's Clam Shack!
Flo's Clam Shack - Fisherman's Platter
Yikes, what a pile (but we're always ready for a challenge)!
Our room at the Renaissance Providence Hotel, where Caroline
caught Scott in the act of coming through the bathroom and
jumping out of the double-sided closet!