Leaving Skye, we set off on the long and (again) windy journey
up the west coast of Scotland to Durness... about as far north
as you can get on Britain's mainland. Along the way, we
made a couple of stops in the seaside towns of Ullapool and
Lochinver. The amazing thing about these towns out in the
middle of nowhere... really - NOwhere - is that everywhere we
went there were hordes of British tourists enjoying these tiny,
cold and gloomy places right along with us. Guess that's
Britain in August for you. We finally made it to our inn, the
fine Mackay's Inn,
which we highly recommend for next time you're passing through
Durness. After what we'd seen along the drive, we expected
very rustic accommodations, but found ourselves in a very
stylish, comfortable, well-appointed room (even had a plasma tv
and fully-loaded iPod), with a view of the water - where the
Atlantic meets the North Sea meets the Arctic.
The weather cooperated for us. That is, it was just
what we expected from the far north of Scotland - cold, rainy,
windy, misty - it just wouldn't have been right to have sun.
We attempted to go for a hike down the coastline in the morning
before heading back south, but the weather turned us around
after about 20 minutes. Climbing back into our comfortable
car, we were able to drive eastward along the coast and enjoy
some absolutely magnificent views of the cliffs and mountains.
We also got out to walk down into Smoo Cave, a large cave carved
into a cliffside by the ocean with a waterfall running down the
back wall. Very cool. Next stop is Inverness, "The
Gateway to the Highlands" and "The Fastest Growing City in
Europe", to name but two titles... We'll see if we feel like
adding any other titles to the city's current claims to fame. |
She may be smiling, but she's not happy to be walking around in
cold, blowing rain
Scott takes the stepping stones to the mouth of Smoo Cave
Back wall of Smoo Cave opens up to a waterfall
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