We stuck it out for 5 days (due to budget restraints) at the
original apartment (aka Le Palais du Skank) that we rented in
the Marais, before relocating to the Best Western Grand Hotel de
L'Univers (yes, we are ashamed to be staying in a Best Western
in Paris, but we weren't taking any more chances!) in the Latin
Quarter (5th arr.). It's nothing fancy, but it's clean and
long-haired-cat-free and therefore more comfortable. Our
old neighborhood was great, really residential and not touristy
at all, but alive with locals living their lives. Like the
man who came into our cafe with an orange cat perched on his
shoulder and fed the cat milk off of a saucer, all the while
chatting with the barman. Or the group of dusty
construction workers in their dirty work clothes, who stopped in
at the cafe where we were having our morning cafes
cremes, for their leisurely morning port wine break.
We would definitely return to Le Marais. This is the real
Paris. Although we miss the low-key local scene (and all the
great cafes) over in the Marias, the excitement (and sunshine,
finally!) here in the Latin Quarter makes up for it. Our
quaint, historic, 34-room hotel, which appears to be no more
than a storefront, sits on a small but lively
semi-pedestrian-only street full of of cafes and restaurants and
a few shops. The restaurants over here tend to be more
touristy and while all the food we've had in Paris is fabulous
(compared to Mexico, certainly), the food Caroline has enjoyed
the most has been the Asian fare, including some of the freshest
sushi ever! There are numerous places in the Marais and
the Latin Quarter that sell Chinese food and sushi that sits in
a glass deli case. You can just point (or speak English,
they all seem to know it, which is funny - more Asians in Paris
seem to know English than the Asians in San Francisco!) and they
scoop out the desired portions and put it in the microwave for
you to eat on-site or take away. The prices are more
reasonable than your typical cafe fare also, which is nice for
us cheapskates.
We, of course, made the requisite visit to the Louvre to
visit Mona (Lisa) and Venus (de Milo), saw the Picasso Museum,
the Jaquemart Museum, toured Versailles and took a narrated boat
tour on the Seine after dark to see Paris all alight. But
some of the things we've enjoyed the most were things that
didn't cost a penny (sorry - euro-cent, I mean). Caroline
loved seeing the impressively grand Arc de Triomphe up close and
walking down the busy and huge Champs-Elysees, alive with energy
,with all it's designer stores, shoppers and sidewalk eateries.
The grand scale of the Place de le Concorde, the Jardin de
Tuilleries, blooming with tulips, and of course the Louvre were
truly awe-inspiring. The fountains and tranquility of the
Place de Vosges, the somber and thought-provoking Holocaust
Deportation Memorial, Notre Dame with its high ceilings and
stained glass and the grand Hotel de Ville were some of our
favorite sights. The famous department stores: Le
Printemps with its beautiful and distinctively French furniture
department and the gourmet grocery store at Le Bon Marche (which
was almost enough to make us move here!) were some other
favorites. We also enjoyed casually strolling down the
narrow shopping streets of Le Marais, the Latin Quarter and St.
Germain, window shopping and stopping for a coffee or a tasty
French snack whenever the mood struck us. And it's not a
visit to Paris without strolling along the Seine and admiring
the pretty bridges, each one different than the last, and the
romantic views.
But probably our favorite thing of all about Paris has been
the people who live here. I know, not what you expected to
hear. Not what we expected either. Sure, a few of
them lived up to their reputation of being rude and
snobbish, but we have been quite pleasantly surprised by how
many local merchants, clerks, barmen and waiters have been
pleasant and fun to experience in their uniquely French way.
And we've been amazed at how many of them (basically, all) have
willingly spoken English to us (after we assaulted them with our
bad French, of course) - the waiter who served us on our first
night in town when we didn't know which end was up and even
asked us where we were from, the post office clerk, the waiter
who apologized profusely after realizing that no one had waited
on us and then took wonderful, personalized and charming care of
us. As the world becomes increasingly small with its
global economy, the people of Paris are keeping their city a
charming and unique place to visit and experience with their
wonderful and distinctively French ways. |
Caroline with Arc de Triomphe
As you can see, ALL Parisian men wear berets and carry baguettes in their backpacks
Sunset on the Seine
Scott poses for yet another photo, this time in front of Notre
Dame
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Just 26 hours after leaving our San Miguel
apartment, we arrived here in the Marais neighborhood (3rd
arrondissement) of Paris. After trudging through the rain
from the metro station to our rental apartment (wishing we'd
have brought our umbrella... but, you know, pack light!), we
found our accommodations. The apartment is very
reminiscent of dorm living, both in terms of size and
cleanliness. The two long haired cats living here don't
help the cleanliness situation much. But having somewhat
settled in, we've spent our first day and a half exploring
Paris' usual suspects. Notre Dame, the Latin Quarter, the Picasso Museum, the Eiffel Tower (don't worry
Monique, we went at night - thanks!), in addition to quite a bit
of walking in our own neighborhood. Caroline's wishing she
would have broken in her new shoes before we came, and
will now be tending to some sore and blistered feet. Oh,
and last night we had a nice meal at Le Relais Odeon, thanks for
the recommendation, Steve & Lucia.
Still lots to see, and another week to see
it. Due to the high level of skankitude (sp?) in the
apartment, we'll probably spend part of the next few days
looking for a hotel to move into for the latter half of our
stay. We'll try to keep you posted, for those interested.
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