Just an hour or so
over the Ohio border, Lexington and the horse culture it
embraces provides a healthy dose of southern gentility and charm
that's hard to resist. This is horse country and, while
not necessarily a fan of horses close up (due to a biting
incident as a child), Caroline loves the romance of the endless
green pastures dotted by these majestic animals and surrounded
by miles of the quaint white fences so characteristic of this
region. So naturally our first stop was the Kentucky
Horse Park, a massive facility open to the public, where shows
and races are held and where our engaging guide, Denny Chapman,
took us through the world of horses, touring the park
facilities, seeing the champions of yesteryear up-close, as well
as a sampling of breeds, who strutted their stuff in the ring
with costumed riders aboard. We even saw one of the horses
who played Seabiscuit in the movie, in full costume.
Sadly, the whole experience was actually a bit underwhelming,
with Denny Chapman's theatrical, super-enthusiastic patter being
the highlight of the park.
From the horse park, we headed downtown for lunch at the
friendly, old fashioned Courtyard Deli (full of men - southern
lawyers? - in suspenders and bowties and one kid in a Kalamazoo
College tee shirt!) and a brief walk around. Downtown
Lexington has a pleasant, mildly southern feel, with an
interesting mix of old and newer architecture, and we were
struck by how many large, beautiful, modern-style fountains
there are around town in the various parks and courtyards, the
fountains in the courthouse courtyard area being some of the
most notable. At this point, it was getting late and we
were hot and tired (we wanted to run through the fountains!), so
after our short stroll we continued our tour in the car, driving
by the lovely, green campus of the University of Kentucky and
through the historic section of town full of beautiful and
stately old homes. Lexington has the feel of a very
livable city, very pleasant indeed. (more...)
Our last stop of the day was at the historic and famous
Keeneland Racetrack. Unfortunately, they only have live
thoroughbred racing in April and October, so we didn't get to
see any of the action, but we did stop in for a look around.
It's a huge complex and the off-track area when you walk in is
definitely reminiscent of the elegance and glamour of a day at
the races in days gone by. Beyond the track and off-track
outdoor lounge/entertainment area, the stabling area goes on and
on seemingly endlessly. We could hear the whinnies of
distant horses and saw trainers out with their charges.
The authenticity of seeing people simply going about their
business (but with horses!) made it perhaps the most interesting
thing we saw all day.
During our tour around downtown, we noticed that Lexington seems
to have no shortage of sophisticated, but pleasant sidewalk and
patio eating and drinking spots. It was a beautiful, balmy
evening, perfect for some alfresco dining, so after a bit of
relaxing at our not-so-genteel-and-sophisticated room at the
aging Comfort Suites, we headed back out for a drink and a bite
to eat. Our first stop was the shi-shi Anna Belle's, where
we sat at a sidewalk table overlooking the courthouse fountains,
eavesdropping on the local, young office workers at the next
table over, while Caroline enjoyed a delicious, San
Francisco-priced martini. After that, we moved on to the
more casual Cheapside's for some pleasant patio dining before
going back to the hotel and hitting the sheets after a long, but
rewarding day. |
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