Nothing's gonna turn
us back now... Straight ahead we're on the track now!
Ahem, where were we. Ah yes, Milwaukee... City of
the Brewers (baseball) in the land of the brewers (Miller,
Pabst, Blatz, Schlitz, Old Mil, The Beast, etc), home of
Marquette University and UWM, in addition to Lenny, Squiggy, and
the big Ragoo. Milwaukee seems to have had a lot of hype
over the past couple of years ("it's like a mini-Chicago! Only
cheaper!"), so we had to check it out for ourselves, seeing how
we're staying directly across Lake Michigan from the town.
The new high speed ferry gets you from Muskegon, MI to
Milwaukee, WI in about 2.5 hours for a paltry $91 round trip
(huh?!), with about an hour and a half in the middle there when
you can't see land in any direction. Upon arrival, we
spent our first day wandering down the riverwalk, by the
lakefront, and throughout downtown. The one thing that
seemed to stand out the most was that there was nobody around,
downtown felt quite deserted. It was Saturday, but
it was also Labor Day weekend. It's a nice downtown to
stay in (we stayed at the 18-story Hyatt) and walk through, with
several theatres, museums and stadiums/arenas within walking
distance, a few historic homes, many-a-new "loft-style"
apartment, and a sprinkling of restaurants. A bit
over-hyped, in our opinion, but after we got over that and
cleared our expectations we decided that there were parts of the
city that would be good places to live, you just have to know
where to look. One highlight of the trip was Saturday's
family dinner at cab-driver favorite Butch's Clock Steak House,
where the tender filets melted in your mouth. A can't miss
for the carnivorous connoisseur (Kris, Tod, Mark, John, etc.,
you know who you are).
On Sunday, a trip on the "trolley" loop helped us learn the lay
of the land, where we discovered that downtown is empty because
the locals seem to be having their coffee in places like Brady
Street. We did venture to the west side, past Marquette
(where we heard all sorts of budding physicists talking about
the U's brilliant new Professor "K") over to the Pabst Mansion,
retirement home of "the Captain", as he and others called
himself. After countless historic home tours throughout
the country, we decided that old man Pabst's place is in about
the best shape and with the most original contents of any we'd
seen. The excruciatingly long 1.5 hour tour dragged a bit,
but if you go at Christmas you can do the self-guided tour.
A pleasant late lunch on the patio of riverfront restaurant John
Hawke's capped our visit to Brew City, USA, where we (Scott)
topped off with a couple of the local "Miller Lite" beers before
taking the evening ferry back to the mitten state. |
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